Botafumeiro - Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

• Used originally to mask the smell of the pilgrims.  Now used to symbolize our prayers rising to the heights. 

Santiago de Compostela

We are spending two days in Santiago, before Mike heads back to the USA and I head to Italy.  I concelebrated the pilgrim Mass yesterday with priests and pilgrims from Brazil, Korea, Japan, France, Canada, Guatamala, and the USA.  We had a rare treat at the end of Mass, something that doesn't happen every day - the botafumeiro, or giant incensor, was swung from the dome of the Cathedral.  It was a thrill to see the smoke and flames flying through the transept of the Cathedral.  I hope to post a video, taken by a pilgrim from our group, who sat right underneath the swinging censor.  Here are some photos of the Cathedral, and St. James riding a white horse.  Tradition says that he appeared in the 9th century to lead the Christians in driving out the Moors.  It has been a "buen camino."

El Camino de Santiago Termina

We arrived at Santiago de Compostela yesterday early afternoon, on a beautiful, sunny Lord's Day.  After walking for ten days a total of 154 miles (336,627 steps), it was a powerful experience to enter the Cathedral of St. James and venerate the relics of the Great Apostle to Spain.  Upon entering the cathedral, the pilgrims process up to the statue of St. James in the sanctuary above the altar, and embrace the saint.  Everyone is silent and it is very moving.  Then we proceed down to the crypt, and kneel before the tomb of St. James in prayer.  It was a very emotional moment for me.  We then went to the pilgrimage office to get our "compostela," the stamp that certifies that you have walked El Camino de Santiago.  You are given a parchment with an inscription in Latin.  After cleaning up and getting some food, we went to the pilgrim's Mass where I was able to concelebrate.  Another powerful moment for me was during the consecration, when Our Lord became truly present on the altar, and a few feet behind me were the bones of St. James, one of his closest disciples.  The pilgrim's Mass was one I will never forget.  We will go to another pilgrim's Mass today, and then have a tour of the Cathedral.  Thank-you, St. James, for guiding us on El Camino.  Keep us always on the Way to Jesus.

The Good Shepherd leads his flock

I write this from O Pino, only 19 K from Santiago de Compostela.  Tomorrow we arrive!  After nine days of strenuous hiking it will be good to arrive and greet the relics of St. James the Apostle.  Daylight Saving Time ends tonight in Spain, so we get an extra hour of sleep for the last push.  Today was a hard day of hiking; we did 17.5 miles, some in the rain.  But every step of the way is a grace and a prayer.  As I passed a flock of sheep yesterday on the trail, I called out to them to see if they would respond to my voice.  They didn't.  They didn't know my voice.  I'm sure if their shepherd called them they would respond.  I'm trying to hear better the voice of Jesus, the Good Shepherd, as I walk this Camino.  Sometimes I speak to my companion, Mike, along the way, or to other pilgrims.  But much of the walk is done in silence.  I try to focus on the voice of Jesus, who is the Way.  I hope that this experience has attuned my heart more closely to the Heart of Jesus.  I have so much joy as I meet other pilgrims who are growing closer to Jesus along this Camino.  Jesus is the Way, and Jesus leads us to the only way that gives life, peace and joy.  Here are some photos of sights along the Camino.

Fe, esperanza, y caridad

El Camino is like the pilgrimage through life.  On the Camino, one hopes to find the source of all good, which is God.  We meet many people on the journey who are searching, hoping to find some purpose and meaning for their life.  Many do not yet know God, but hopefully this journey will help them to come to meet Jesus, who is the Way, the Truth and the Life.  Walking this Way makes one realize that if we just slow down, smell the flowers and take in the beauty of what surrounds us, we will find God.  He is everywhere.  I'm seeking to grow in the virtues of faith, hope and love on this Camino.  There are many opportunities to practice all three: faith that the trail will come to an end, hope that the rain will stop, and love expressed in the people one meets and the beauty of the countryside.  Take a look at some scenes from this day.  I recited psalm 118 this morning: "This is the day the Lord has made; let us rejouce and be glad."  It was like Easter after yesterday's rain - full of sunshine!  God is good.

To the Heights

Today we passed the highest point of El Camino, Alto de Poio (1,335 meters).  We needed faith to see the spectacular view from there, because it rained all day.  After 15.6 miles of hiking in the rain, it was great to arrive at Triacastela.  It was sure nice to get to our hotel and get into some dry clothes, and then have lunch.  "Lunch" here in Spain is served from 1:00 to 4 or even 5:00 pm.  Dinner doesn't begin till 8:00 pm, and it's not unusual for the Spaniards to eat dinner at 10:00 pm.  There's always a "peregrino" (pilgrim) menu at the local restaurants.  You can get a 3-course hearty meal for 10 euros, including wine, and the food is delicious.  Last evening at O Cebreiro, I concelebrated the pilgrim Mass in the local church.  The Franciscan priest gave a special blessing to all the Camino pilgrims at the end of Mass.  I was invited to pray a part of the Eucharistic Prayer in Spanish.  Here are some scenes along the Camino.  The dogs, cats, cows, sheep, horses and people are all used to hikers passing through their villages and farms.  Today, as we passed through a little village, a woman offered us fresh, warm crepes.  Life is beautiful along El Camino.

Senor "Buen Camino" - Mike Thielen

64,041 steps, or 29.39 miles closer to Santiago de Compostela

After our first day of hiking, I wondered why I ever decided to do this!  Muscles hurt that I never knew I had.  17.84 miles, according to my fitbit, or 38,855 steps.  Today was a lot easier day, and I feel 99% better.  Tomorrow we will climb those mountains that you see in the background in the photo of me - with an ascent of 2,300 feet.  Extra prayers will be appreciated.  Here are some photos of sites along the Camino.  Every so often we pass by a beautiful little chapel.  We get our "sella" or stamp in the chapel or in a cafe, which will verify we did the Camino once we arrive at Santiago.  The graces are starting to build up each day.  Just thinking of the millions of pilgrims that have walked this Way since the Middle Ages and realizing we are tracing their footsteps is a blessing.  And the people one meets along the Way - all images of God.  The locals who greet us with a smile and "Buen Camino!" and the fellow pilgrims who come from all over the world - all searching for God in one way or another.

Vamos a comenzar el Camino!

Shell that marks the way

We arrived in Ponferrada yesterday, and have our orientation meeting this evening.  We'll have a dinner with regional fare from the Bierzo region.  Prayed at the shrine of St. Teresa of Avila in the church right off the square where we're staying - on this her feast day.  St. Teresa of Avila, pray for us!  Tomorrow morning we hit the trail.  You're all in my prayers

Between Uruguay and Spain

I have returned from Uruguay and have finished formal Spanish study.  I've made good progress the last several weeks, but still have a long way to go to reach the proficiency I desire.  Besides studying Spanish, I've been training for El Camino, hiking from 4 to 10 miles each day.  So far only one blister, and the cause has been corrected (I hope!).  This week I'll be making preparations for the next three parts of my sabbatical: Spain, Italy and Israel.  El Camino de Santiago is set to begin on October 15.